Selecting the Right Bicycle Seat
Many new cyclists are turned off from the sport before they ever really give it a chance. The first few rides provide an excruciating ordeal that leaves them hobbled, sore and very disenchanted with the sport of cycling.
This isn't an affliction that only affects new riders but even more experienced cyclists tolerate saddle discomfort because they are under the mistaken impression that it simply goes along with the sport. That is simply wrong! Once you find the right saddle, you can ride for hours with minimal discomfort and instead of focusing on the pain in your butt, you can enjoy the ride.
While the right saddle can make a TREMENDOUS difference in comfort, it is important that new riders need to understand that they WILL experience a certain level of discomfort for the first few rides no matter what seat they have on their bike. Too often new riders will ride the bike once, experience intense pain, try a big, fluffy, padded seat and think it's going to cure it. They are still sore on the next ride and that is where they abandon their cycling endeavors thinking it simply isn't for them.
New riders take note, the soreness will diminish greatly after the first few weeks and you should stick to it long enough to get through the butt "break in" period. If you find that after a few weeks of riding, your comfort level has not increased dramatically then there is a very good chance you are simply sitting on a saddle that is not appropriate for your style of riding or your anatomy.
The very first and basic step is to make sure that you're on the proper "type" of seat for your style of riding. They are all built with a specific purpose in mind and if yours doesn't match your riding style then you need to address that first and foremost.
There are three basic riding positions, with three corresponding seat types:
Upright Riding Position

Ideal Saddle Type: Upright Cruiser Type saddle
Features: Very wide, fully padded, may include springs or gel
Ideal Bike Types: Cruiser bikes; some comfort and hybrid bikes
Ideal Riding Style: Leisure riding, casual, slow pedaling cadence
Notes: Notice how the rider has almost all of his weight resting over the seat. This makes the wide saddle shown perfect because it offers an ample platform for support and includes plush padding to cushion most of his body weight. Plus, this cyclist pedals at a leisurely to slow pace with his feet slightly ahead of his body, so a little extra seat width doesn't interfere with leg movement. This style of saddle would come standard on a cruiser or upright style of bicycle but may have been changed at some time in the past if you purchased a used bicycle.
Regular Riding Position

Ideal Saddle Type: Sport Men's and Women's models
Features: Anatomic/ergonomic design, may have cutout in top, medium padding (possibly gel), narrower nose, width of rear should match your sit-bone width. This is crucial!
Ideal Bike Types: Flatbar road bike; mountain/hybrid bike
Ideal Riding Style: Commuting, Mild Fitness, touring, road and trail use, medium to fast pedaling cadence.
Notes: For recreational riding where you sit upright and lean slightly forward transferring some of your weight to the pedals and handlebars, a medium to narrow saddle with an ergonomic design and a moderate amount of padding is usually best. Riding this type of bicycle you maintain a fast pedal rate and appreciate less width in the nose so it won't interfere with your thighs.
Performance Riding Position

Ideal Saddle Type: Racing Men's or Women's models
Features: The narrowest and lightest seats, lightly padded, sometimes feature cutouts in the tops, rear width matches your sit bones, may be anatomic/ergonomic
Ideal Bike Types: Road bikes; road racing bikes; triathalon style bikes; racing mountain bikes
Ideal Riding Style: Fast, fitness, fun, century, race, fast pedaling cadence
Notes: Cyclists who ride fast and hard or for competition require seats suited to their forward position and rapid pedal cadence. Notice how the rider has much of her weight over the handlebars and pedals. She's so far forward you can see that she's resting near the middle of the saddle, too. This means less weight is on the seat, which is why these riders can get by with such minimal designs. Also, it's the perfect position for fast pedaling, for which a narrow saddle like this is ideal.
Seat Padding Tips
It is important to note that many new riders simply think that a thicker and more padded seat will cure their problems but that is definitely not the case. A seat that is too thick for your style of riding then it can create as many problems as it might solve. Here is a simple test that you can try to see how your seat stacks up on a padding basis. The "thumb" test is an easy quick check.....simply press your thumb into the seat and if it feels "squishy" then this probably isn't what you want for a longer ride or performance oriented type bike. It's for a recreational, cruiser style of bike. A Sunday driver if you will.
The longer the ride goes then traditionally you pedal at a higher pedal rate and of course you will log much more seat time than on a shorter ride. For this style of riding, it's far more important that a saddle simply support your weight than it is for the seat to absorb it.
In summary, a small amount of padding built into the saddle in the appropriate areas will relieve pressure appropriately on your sensitive areas. We can't say enough that squishy, bulky padding that feels like it should be comfortable, WILL cause problems if you ride for exercise or for longer distances. Match your seat to the type of riding you do....use the pictures above as a reference.
Ignore this advice, at your own peril....trust us.
Seat Width Tips
Another very important factor to consider is the width of the seat. Everyone's skeletal system is not constructed the same way and so it is important that you match your seat to your own skeletal construction. What you want to do is to match your seat width in the rear to the width of your "sit bones." Your sit bones are the bones that you can feel if you sit on a hard surface such as the edge of a chair or a board. Try it, sit flat on a very hard surface and "feel" with your butt. You can feel a bone protruding somewhere on each buttock. If you can enlist someone to help you then find the center point of each sit bone and measure the width center to center. If you can find a seat that supports that width then you will be amazed at what a difference it could make in your comfort.
If your sit bones are too wide or narrow for a certain seat, then you won't benefit from any of its features because it doesn't fit you correctly. In fact, not only will you not benefit but it will actually create another set of problems for you. Too narrow of a seat and it will be putting pressure on spreading your bones, never a good thing and too wide and it can create pressure points.
If you are not a new cyclist but are someone who has tolerated discomfort for some time, then you might be able to see the indentations of your sit bones on your current saddle and measure them that way. I have found it better though to measure using a chair or some other hard surface.
Your sit bones should be centered over the rear of the saddle. Often there are anatomic bumps in the area for this purpose so use those as reference points to compare the width that you measure your site bones.
Anatomical Cutouts
Some alarming studies concerning loss of blood flow in cyclists has led to another innovation in engineering and that is the anatomical cutout. Not all riders will benefit from this design but if you are experiencing numbness or tingling in your groin area and nothing else has solved your problem then you might consider one of these style of saddles.
An anatomical cutout is a saddle that has a groove cut out of the center of the saddle that is designed to relieve pressure from your perineum area, which contains a lot of blood vessels. Different seat makers have different thoughts on the best shape of this cutout and there are a number of designs on the market. I have tried many of these different styles and honestly did not notice too much difference from anatomical saddle to anatomical saddle.
I think if you are a rider that prefers a groove then this is something to consider. Telltale signs again, are tingling and/or numbness and you have ensured that the seat is properly leveled and you do not simply have a fit issue.
Sore Saddle Tips
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Check Seat Height & Angle - A common cause of saddle sores is a seat that is simply adjusted wrong. You want to make sure that you saddle is level with the ground and at the right height so that the balls of your feet have a slight bend when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. If the seat's angled down, set too high or low, it will cause discomfort and pain. If you are experiencing tingling or numbness in your hands then you may consider a slight upturn on the nose of the saddle but do not adjust more than 3 degrees. This can take some of the pressure off your hands and wrists but again...no more than 3 degrees. If you have to go further than that then you likely have another issue.
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Ride More - As we stated above, you have to condition your body to being on a bicycle seat. Don't give up on a saddle before you have given it enough of a chance. I would say a few weeks worth of riding should give you an idea to know whether the saddle is right for you or not.
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Move Around - This might seem tough to do on a bicycle seat but you can shift slightly forward, rearward and even stand up and pedal from time to time to simply change it up some and get blood flowing to certain parts again. Frequent adjustment and sliding around slightly can make a SIGNIFICANT difference in your comfort level. It's a hard habit to develop but once you learn to ride like that then you will ride like that forever.
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Dress For Cycling - If you are riding an upright style of bike, then you can wear about anything you want as it's like sitting on a chair but if you are riding a bent over style of riding bike then you will be amazed what a difference a good pair of bike shorts can make. When I started riding, I resisted this advice because I didn't believe they would help and I didn't want to wear lycra but now I wouldn't leave home without it. It's an AMAZING difference what a good quality pair of bike shorts can do for you. They have specific designs and construction that will match your riding style and when you start riding more than a few miles, they really become critical. You will also be happy to know that there are several different styles and many of them are loose and baggy and look like normal shorts. Whew.

VERY helpful. Mow I just have to measure my sit bones. I ride between 1 and 4 hours and after about 30-minutes the pain sets in. My rides are limited by seat discomfort, not endurance, so now I’m on the warpath to find my perfect seat. Thansk for your help!
You’ve not explained why more padding is a problem for longer rides, or why less padding is better, and I’m not sure I agree. I’ve been a road cyclist since I was 16 years old. I’m now 58 and I’ve logged at least 250,000 miles. The seat that came on my Felt F4 was very light and hard and, for me, uncomfortable. I replaced it with an inexpensive WTB Speedo mountain bike seat which has been comfortable and served me well for the past year, however it is heavy and I never cared for the shape — I prefer a flatter seat that allows you to slide forward and back — so I bought a Specialized Toupe. After a week of feeling like my butt was being hammer, I traded it for a Specialized Avatar Gel which is only slightly more padded. A few days ago I rode from San Diego over the mountains to the desert, a six hour, hundred mile ride with 5,000 feet of climbing (and a very fast decent). About half-way through the ride, my butt started hurting. I shifted my position and the angle of my hips to find relief, and stood regularly to give it a break. After the ride I could not sit on my sit bones without pain. Even the next day my sit bones felt bruised. I never had this problem with my soft mountain bike seat. Please don’t tell me that it’s because I don’t know how to sit. Although light weight is certainly an advantage for hill climbing and racing, I wonder if some of the appeal of these very hard seats stems from a bit of bicycle snobbery.
This is excellent info. I haven’t ridden in 30 years. Things have really changed. Thanks. This explains why I am still in pain a week after trying to ride my new bike.
@Steven – First of all congratulations for being 58 and still tearing it up!! As for your seat issues, it’s hard to say. The article that I wrote is what we have found to be true for the majority of people from years of being in and around the club riding scene, as you know there are exceptions to everything.
The WTB MTB seat is NOT what I was referring to in regards to a big fluffy bicycle seat but more the, well, the big fluffy bike seats like you see at Wal-Mart or even the bike shops that are made by companies like Bell etc. These are not meant for long distance riding on a performance style bike.
The thicker the padding then the higher the chance for hot spots to form which can create an entirely different level of soreness than sit bones issues. Sit bones will toughen up assuming the width is correct but hot spots can burn sores into your skin and that is NO fun.
So to summarize, first the WTB seat is moderate padding in my opinion and as for your experiences with the other saddles, it’s hard to say. You rode on one a week and the other one for a day before tossing them aside. Maybe they weren’t the right width, shape or design for your sit bones. Both were from Specialized so possibly there geometry isn’t a good match for you. One of my favorite saddles is the Specialized Alias in 155mm because I have wide sit bones…every other saddle KILLED me until I found that one….and it is on one of my bikes today. I’ve also had great luck with Selle Italia Max Flite saddles as well.
Good luck in finding one that works for you.
My name is Steve and I am a above knee amputee of 30+ years. This is more of a inquiry than a review. Just recently (about a month) I got my new “C Leg” which is a microprocessor knee. I have decided to take up bike riding and very excited; in fact purchased a Electra 21D Townie Flat Foot technology which is great for my situation. I am not a performance rider, just for
enjoyment and exercise. The biggest challenge for me has been comfort (although been experimenting with different shorts, etc. That has improved things quit a bit. With an above knee type device the socket comes all the way to the groin, so there is the source of discomfort. I was thinking maybe a nose less seat and tried one; not the answer at all. There is a fine line between how the leg is fit for walking and having it work for riding. Going for some adjustements also. Now I am thinking maybe the answer is simply a larger nose seat, but something gel (needs to give)to take the pressure in that area. Am I thinking correctly? Would love to receive some feedback and or advice on this.
Thank you
Steve, congrats on maintaining your activity levels, it would be easy to just say it can’t be done and give up so cudos to you for staying at it. I am sorry to say that your question is out of the realm of our knowledge base and we would have to defer to your doctor. If you explain your situation to him or her then they could give you better advice than we can. Good luck.
“Selecting the Right Bicycle Seat” is a phenomenally great concise piece. I am looking to buy a new bike after having one for 20 years. I’m in my mid-forties and not necessarily athletic, but am not the “Sunday driver” either. Everyone has been trying to convince me that the wide softer seat is better and I started to wonder if I was just rebelling against an age image. But my riding style is to lean forward and this article has helped me understand why I like the narrower seat better. I just wish I could find a similar site that helps to choose the right bicycle. Thank you!
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